How to care for a Monstera

The Monstera deliciosa is, by any reasonable measure, the most forgiving large houseplant you can buy. It tolerates low light, irregular watering, and the kind of benign neglect that kills lesser plants outright. If you’ve managed to struggle with one, something has gone genuinely wrong — and this guide will help you figure out what.

Light

Monsteras prefer bright, indirect light. A spot a metre or two back from a south or east-facing window is ideal. They’ll survive in lower light, but the leaves will be smaller and those famous splits — technically called fenestrations — won’t develop properly.

Direct sunlight will scorch the leaves. You’ll know because they’ll turn yellow or brown in patches that look like they’ve been left too close to a radiator. Move it back from the window and cut off any badly damaged leaves.

Watering

Water when the top two inches of soil are dry. In most UK homes, that’s roughly once a week in summer and every ten to fourteen days in winter.

The biggest mistake people make with Monsteras is overwatering. The plant sits in soggy soil, the roots rot, and by the time you notice something’s wrong it’s usually fairly advanced. If the leaves are yellowing and the soil has been consistently wet, that’s your answer.

Stick your finger in the soil before every watering. If it’s still damp, wait. That’s genuinely all there is to it.

Feeding

Feed once a month during spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertiliser. Don’t bother in autumn and winter — the plant isn’t actively growing and won’t use it.

More fertiliser does not mean faster growth. It means salt build-up in the soil, which will damage the roots. Once a month is enough.

Humidity and temperature

Monsteras are tropical plants, so they appreciate humidity — but they’ll cope fine in a normal UK home without any intervention. If the leaf tips are turning brown and crispy, the air is probably too dry. A light misting a couple of times a week helps, or move it away from any radiators.

Keep them above 15°C. They won’t thank you for a cold window ledge in January.

Common problems

Yellow leaves: Almost always overwatering. Check the soil and let it dry out before watering again. If multiple leaves are yellowing rapidly and the soil is sodden, unpot the plant and check for root rot — brown, mushy roots need to be cut back before repotting in fresh soil.

Brown, crispy leaf tips: Usually low humidity or too much direct sun. Move it away from heat sources and direct light.

Leaves not splitting: The plant needs more light, or it’s too young. Fenestrations typically start appearing once the plant matures. Patience is required.

Leggy growth with small leaves: Not enough light. Move it somewhere brighter.

Leaves drooping: Either underwatering or overwatering. Check the soil — if it’s dry, water it. If it’s wet, leave it alone and check your drainage.

Repotting

Repot every one to two years, or when roots start coming out of the drainage holes. Go up one pot size at a time — a pot that’s too large holds excess moisture and increases the risk of root rot.

Spring is the best time to repot. Use a well-draining potting mix — a standard houseplant compost with a handful of perlite added works well.

A note on the aerial roots

Monsteras produce thick aerial roots that grow out from the stem and can end up trailing across your floor looking for something to climb. You can tuck them back into the pot, push them into the soil, or train them up a moss pole. You can also trim them if they’re genuinely getting in the way — the plant won’t suffer.

What you shouldn’t do is panic about them. They’re normal.